Thoughts On Groceries, Again

This is going to be a quick, stream of consciousness ramble. I’ve got a lot of school work to do, but instead I’m thinking about grocery stores again.

Yesterday, there was a meeting of state transportation leaders in Portland and today I’ve been reading the BikePortland coverage. There’s a ton of stuff of interest, most of it being somewhat disappointing (typical ODOT!). Something did catch my eye – and it’s a piece from House Rep Tawna Sanchez.

When we’re building low-income housing, we’re building it without parking for the most park, and have an expectation that people will – somehow or another, miraculously be able to shop for their five, six kids or whatever, however many people they have in their home once or twice a month – and be able to bring that all back on the bus or something like that. That is not reality for poor people, let’s just be realistic.

There’s a lot to unpack here, but I think the most salient point for me is the assumption that someone who lives in a presumably urban area is going to be shopping just once or twice a month. She went on to say (from this Tweet)

Which means that people end up having to go to the store more often and spend more money than they normally would have if they were able to shop [in bulk]. They can’t go to Costco. That’s not an option.

The assumption here is that bulk shopping is a winning strategy for low-income Portlanders. Though bulk purchases have lower unit costs, they are also more expensive in absolute terms. This matters if you’re living paycheck to paycheck, though isn’t something I really am hoping to highlight.

Especially for fresh produce (the generally least expensive and absolutely most healthy way to cook for yourself), buying things a full month in advance is not a winning strategy. The end use of groceries does not happen when you buy them, but rather when you eat the food. Getting any sort of food weeks or up to a month before you eat it means there’s just a much higher risk of spoilage than if you shop more frequently.

It’s also just an assumption – that a monthly or bi-monthly “large haul” trip for groceries – that feels fundamentally suburban/car oriented. In New York, it’s common to shop more frequently, for fewer items – since you do most of your shopping on foot. Likewise in Japan. And Italy. And Greece. In fact, in just about every topic I could find written on a travel blog or whatever, a common refrain would be “local people here shop for their food multiple times per week, even daily!”

According to a 2011 study, fully 60% of trips to grocery stores in North America were reportedly to “stock up”, compared to under 20% in the Middle East, Asia, and Latin America (Europe sits between the two, presumably because of the UK). While the study talks about “the structure of trade, household size and refrigeration availability around the world”, I think this is somewhat misleading. Realistically, most of the reasoning for “stocking up” driven grocery store visits in the US has to do with the availability of cars (to move the huge hauls) and the predisposition of US households to favor processed foods (for a variety of reasons too complex to discuss in depth here).

And while I just promised I wouldn’t discuss the predisposition for processed foods in the US (which includes canned goods), it does require at least a cursory look. Since the mid 20th century, the US government’s broad strategy for agricultural policy has been to heavily subsidize corn and soybeans, both of which are energy rich and can be processed into other food items that can then be sold for a hefty profit by manufactures. We’ve been so successful at subsidizing corn, that something like 40% of corn grown is converted to Ethanol (assuming I got that right on the crossword I did today anyways). It’s a bit maddening.

In any case, this is to say that stocking up only works if you can buy a lot of processed food in bulk, and you have a car. While I wouldn’t claim that it’s a consensus, there is plenty of evidence that there are negative health impacts of processed foods (though usually processing like canning is not part of that – to be clear, I’m not anti canned food either. I don’t think it tastes as good, but that’s somewhat subjective). And I don’t think I need to reiterate with much detail on the negative public health outcomes relating to automobile ownership.

I’m willing to believe that Rep. Sanchez had good intentions with her quotes here. I can only assume that she is not familiar with the particular nuances of grocery shopping in other parts of the world; I’ve yet to meet anyone other than myself who really would call it an interest. I don’t mean to single out Rep. Sanchez on this front, I’m not familiar with her policy work in the slightest and it was far from the most egregious point made last night, but I think this lack of understanding on how people in different contexts do the daily task of living is still deeply disappointing to me.

So often in our lives, we are constrained to the system that has been constructed around us. But there are moments – like when the state legislature is considering broad strokes on what matters for transportation funding – that we have the opportunity to look beyond the pale. If all we can manage in those moments is the cynical reconstruction of the status quo, then we will never be the city, state, or region we say we want to be.

3 responses to “Thoughts On Groceries, Again”

  1. I get what you are getting at. And while the conclusion that Rep. Sanchez arrived at is wrong, I’m going to give her the benefit of the doubt and believe that she is coming from a good place. Car-head is a hard mode to get out of.

    But I also think that sometimes those of us who have “figured out” what’s wrong and come from a place of relative privilege (white, middle-class, college educated) can’t figure out why there might be pushback to good urbanist policies, even if we think that they will benefit everyone. And I’m going to put myself in the shoes of someone who Rep. Sanchez is advocating for.

    These people are probably working long hours somewhere for little pay, and may spend a lot of time commuting to/from work, no matter what the transit mode is. And they might have a big family. When they get home, they are tired, but still need to attend to family needs. So the idea of daily grocery shopping is not something that has any appeal. They want to make a weekly run to shop and stock up. That is hard on foot or transit. And yes, they’ll buy more prepared/processed foods, because they are easier to make (and easier for their kids to make.) Yes, buying “real” food may be cheaper, but it’s all about time and energy in this case.

    And the idea of shopping every day for groceries only works if there are real grocery stores close-by. Portland isn’t horrible in this aspect, but still not great. And even where it is possible, it’s not always pleasant. For example, we live near Glisan Fred Meyer. When my partner bought her house over twenty years, close proximity to a grocery store was a priority. But we rarely go to this Fred Meyer anymore, even if it’s close. That’s because the shopping experience has become unpleasant. They now have guards checking your receipt on the way out. We’d rather go elsewhere and spend a little more money on better quality food, even though it means we often drive there.

    Daily grocery shopping has a lot more appeal when your markets are like what they are in NYC, or Europe, or if Peoples and New Seasons is nearby. (I used to live down by Peoples too.) But I can imagine those whose options are Food-4-Less or WinCo would not want to subject themselves to that experience on a daily basis.

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    1. I also think that Rep. Sanchez was coming at things from a good place, but I’m less willing to give her the benefit of the doubt. I feel pretty strongly that more care needs to be taken in general with the ways that people interact with food, and that most people could stand to spend more time and money on preparing their own meals. But this viewpoint is more to do with my feelings on the social and cultural significance of food, and I’m sensitive to underlying issues (especially on the time front for families) that get in the way. I just ultimately think that to solve those issues, a more in depth conversation is always needed, and it mostly revolves around how much low wage workers get screwed over at every turn. But none of that changes how I feel towards food, and grocery shopping in the abstract. It should be a pleasant and enjoyable experience to shop for food, and it should be something folks have the time and energy to do.

      If we want to be serious about solving all the issues that come from such car oriented life styles, I feel that a deeper understanding of cultural norms around grocery shopping in other parts of the world is really instructive if only because grocery shopping is a somewhat mundane task for most folks. Lots of emphasis is given on abstract ideas like 15-minute neighborhoods, less is given on what it’s like to do grocery shopping on foot a few times a week so we get things like this. Or that’s the way I see it anyways.

      I do hear you on the shopping experience though. For a while, my partner would go to the QFC in Sellwood to get a better deal than People’s but it was so miserable she decided to just be a hands-on owner at People’s to save 15% there instead (making the higher price points much more palatable). I don’t think I’ll ever shop at a Kroger affiliate again if I can help it – definitely agree on the unpleasant experience.

      On a longer time scale, I think denser living arrangements -> fewer cars -> more grocery trips on foot/transit -> greater success of smaller grocers. It’s not always a straight path forward, but I really want Portland to be a place where every neighborhood has a People’s or a Talarico’s and I don’t find Rep. Sanchez’s points to be salient counterpoints against those ideas – mostly I find them to be deflecting towards real scenarios, but with issues that ultimately are rooted in raw economic factors more than grocery shopping ones. I hear you that it’s a privileged place to be coming from though

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  2. I feel like there used to be a fairly prominent blog about a car-free family titled “But how do you get groceries?” or something similar.

    You might be interested in this book about how people get their food and how that fits into the rest of their lives: https://www.foodpolitics.com/2021/11/weekend-reading-food-and-inequality/

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